Chef Hermes

So, this year both AA and Michelin release their guides in the same week, and how the tide has turned. Michelin is viewed by chefs as the benchmark to achieve, but realistically they knew it would be easier to attain 3 Rosettes (the top 10% in the AA guide).

Many people ask if there is a direct comparison between the two guides, and of course there isn’t. Firstly, Michelin at 1* level is solely about food, whereas the AA, is more about the whole dining experience. Broadly speaking 3 Rosettes is very similar to a Michelin star, although any chef will tell you that the kudos the French tyre maker’s award has, eclipses that of the recovery services’. Of course there have been anomalies, The Castle in Taunton had 4 Rosettes but no Michelin star under Phil Vickery (yes, him of This Morning on ITV) and yet there have been several 2 Rosette places which have gained a star as well.

In the past 12months there have been several high profile chefs that have moved on to pastures new:

• Shaun Rankin, departed Bohemia, Jersey (4rosettes) for his own venture.
• Steve Smith, left the 4rosette Devonshire Arms, Yorkshire & moved to Bohemia.
• Adam Smith, left the fine dining option at The Ritz (3 Rosettes), London and replaced Steve Smith.
• Adam Simmonds, is leaving Danesfield House, Bucks (4Rosettes). For his own venture.
• Matt Weedon, left Lords of the Manor (3Rosettes), to briefly join the 10in8 group, then on to Fallowfields in Oxfordshire.
• The Crown at Whitebrook (3 Rosettes) in Wales, closed with James Sommerin due to open his own venture in Penarth very soon (as announced on this blog first).
• Tim Allen joined Launceston Place from the 4Rosette Whatley Manor, where he was Sous chef after Tristin Welch left to pursue other opportunities (this was actually announced in February 2012).
• Robert Thompson departed The Hambrough (3Rosettes), and was eventually replaced by Darren Beevers (There are various posts on this site concerning this episode, should you have missed it).
• Adam Stokes has long departed the former 4Rosette Glenapp Castle (despite what their website says), and they appointed the former Sous chef from Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham, Matt Worswick.

So, at the higher end of the ratings scale there will be plenty of movement, and yet there has been very little in terms of interest as to who will win what. But before I give you my predictions, let’s try to address the Elephant in the room.

There is a growing concern amongst chefs about the conflict of interests at the AA, which they aren’t will to address. I even tweeted to Simon Numphud, Hotel Services Manager at AA Hotel Services (@AAHospitality on Twitter), to get some kind of response or an interview:

@AAHospitality would you be available for an interview concerning the conflict of interests as chefs see the guide & consulting?

As I ask the question every year and get no response, it was hardly surprising that this year was no different.
So how much does it cost I hear you ask. Well, a senior AA inspector has been quoted to me as saying:

It is £500 just for the AA to come and have a sit down meeting about consulting on rosettes.

But this blog has heard various figures being bandied around, with a large central London hotel reputedly paying somewhere in the region of £5000, to ensure it was in the top 10% (3 Rosettes and above).

I’d like to point out to the AA, who are probably reading this, that I don’t really have a problem with them consulting on their awards. What I, and it seems lots of other chefs, have a problem with is the level of transparency to which these awards are handed out. For example; Best Restaurant of the Year 2012/13, scores 2 Rosettes & 2/10 in the Good Food Guide. Really? Is that the best the AA inspectors could find in the whole of the UK? Or was it to placate the media hungry owner, because it wasn’t good enough for 3 Rosettes?

Sadly, what is coming to my attention more & more, is the willingness of owners, operators & managers who are actually willing to part with cash to insure that they make the grade.

So to my predictions:

• 5 Rosettes: Hambleton Hall, Oakham, Rutland.
• 4 Rosettes: L’ortolan, Shinfield, Reading.
• 4 Rosettes: Launceston Place, London.
• 3 Rosettes: Glenapp Castle, Ayrshire.
• 3 Rosettes: Alexander House, Sussex.
• 3 Rosettes: Rushton Hall, Northants.
• 3 Rosettes: Langshott Manor, Surrey.
• 3 Rosettes: Ynyshir Hall, Wales.
• 3 Rosettes: Van Zeller, Yorkshire.
• 3 Rosettes: The Empress, Hackney, London.

Other names being mentioned, but I’m not overly convinced for one reason or another: The French; Aumbry; Brockencote Hall; The Grove in Narbeth & Dinner by Heston is rumoured to be in for 4.

Deletions, and these maybe for a number of reasons, but it is mainly due to the fact that the chef may have changed & they’ve not been inspected in time under the new regime:

• Lords of the Manor, Cotswolds
• Devonshire Arms, Yorkshire
• Bohemia, Jersey (unsure on this, would like to see it stay at 4 Rosettes, but the likelihood is that it’ll move to 3)
• The Hambrough, Isle of Wight.
• Adam Simmonds at Danesfield House.
• Le Becasse, Shropshire.
• Anthony’s, Leeds, Yorkshire. (May still be listed, but actually closed)
• Restaurant Mark Greenaway. (Relocated & opened in January 2013, unsure but would like to think could still be 3)

Whilst some of you may think it cruel of me to list the deletions / demotions, if you actually look at the situation, it is common sense. Chefs at this level know that you have to play ball with the guides & as most generally work a three month notice period, they inform the guides pretty as soon as their notice goes in. Hence the reason Adam Simmonds at Danesfield House wasn’t listed in the Good Food Guide this year, giving the game away to the staff.

For everybody involved in the awards this year, congratulations and I’m sure the next 12 months will be just as exciting.

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Chef Hermes